Queen’s Ruby Tiara: Jewellery expert unveils true meaning behind controversial design

Burmese Ruby tiara: Expert on Queen's 'vibrant' jewels

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There are some magnificent pieces within the Royal Family’s Crown Jewels collection, but nothing is as incredible as a sparkling tiara. The Burmese Ruby Tiara is said to be one of the Queen’s favourites, and it is also one of the most controversial diadems she owns. Express.co.uk spoke to Sophie Naylor, Senior Bespoke Consultant at 77 Diamonds, about the piece and what it’s worth. 

The Burmese Ruby Tiara was made in the early 70s and the monarch’s reason to do so has caused controversy, both for its design and meaning. 

When Queen Elizabeth II ascended to the throne in 1953, she took possession of all of the jewels designated as “heirlooms of the crown” by previous monarchs and their spouses.

This included the Oriental Circlet tiara, another ruby diadem.

But the circlet was well-loved by the Queen Mother. 

The new Queen Mother was a young widow in her 50s, and she had decades of royal duties ahead of her. 

Rather than taking the circlet from her mother, Elizabeth let her keep the piece and use other jewels instead. 

Most of these pieces stayed with the Queen Mother for the rest of her life, so Elizabeth didn’t inherit – or begin wearing them – them until her passing in 2002.

In the meantime, Queen Elizabeth still needed a ruby tiara of her own, in particular, to wear with the host of ruby jewellery she owned.

And so Her Majesty decided to design one herself and this led to one of the most modern tiaras in her possession.

Sophie explained: “The Burmese Ruby Tiara was created in 1973 by the House of Garrard. 

“Estimated at £5 million, the tiara is one of the more controversial designs within the Queen’s collection. 

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“It was made using diamonds from the Nizam of Hyderabad Tiara, which was gifted to her on her wedding day in 1947.” 

The Nizam was considered a beautiful tiara and is popular with Royal fans.

Elizabeth did wear the Nizam in the early years of her reign but decided the jewels should be incorporated into a new tiara design. 

Sophie continued: “Along with diamonds, exactly 96 red rubies were set into this new design. 

“These vibrant red gems were presented to the Queen on her wedding day by the people of Burma. 

“Believed to protect the wearer against illness and ill will, the Burmese rubies were set into rose shapes as the prominent feature of the tiara, creating a piece that remains one of the Queen’s favourite.” 

The rubies and diamonds were set in a series of rose motifs, and a heraldic rose that combines white and red petals as the Tudor rose is recognisable within the design. 

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