Dame Vivienne Westwood passed away only two months ago, and her powerful 81-year-long legacy will forever be felt in all corners of the world. However, her death proved incredibly difficult for her widower Andreas Kronthaler, who had worked alongside Westwood for several decades to manage the design side of her namesake label.
For Fall/Winter 2023, Kronthaler crafted a delicate homage to his loving partner, channeling the late designer’s anti-establishment attitude. While a somber energy filled the air in Paris, the audience, along with Westwood’s family, who mingled through the crowd, united in remembrance of Westwood’s lasting impact on others.
The late designer’s rebellious House codes overwhelmed the showcase, which cemented her as one of the greats. The first look to grace the runway saw a model bare a T-shirt printed with a loving image of Westwood. The top was contrasted by embroidered sleeves that spiraled with metallic blue detailing. A checkered miniskirt and graphic tights completed the look, undoubtedly Westwood. Mismatched patterns reigned supreme throughout the collection, adorning pixelated pullovers and glass-printed bottoms filled with blooming flowers.
While every garment was crafted from deadstock materials, toned-down notes arrived as wool ensembles, deconstructed vests, and billowing parachute trousers tied together with shoe laces. The range continued with oversized baby doll dresses, shredded kilts that doubled as bags, and tightly laced corsets, while formal suiting was jazzed up to reflect Westwood’s eccentric personality and punk inspirations. Jumbo-sized bows dangled to the ground paired with dainty wool sets in rainbow hues, while the House’s traditional bridal look completed the showcase with a youthful glow.
Take a closer look at Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood’s FW23 collection in the gallery above.
Elsewhere at Paris Fashion Week, Ann Demeulemeester FW23 marked Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s creative debut.
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